The main ingredient in all lash adhesives is cyanoacrylate which dictates the curing and drying speed of your adhesives. But in order for the curing to kick start, moisture needs to be present in the air, this is known as humidity. If the air is too dry, your lash glue will not dry as quickly as anticipated, resulting in poor lash retention.
Reputable manufacturers will tell you the ideal drying time specific to that particular lash glue. This characteristic is based on the ideal humidity, normally between 45% and 60%. The same is true for temperature, you want to ensure your space is in the ideal range for your glue, normally between 20*C - 21*C. If the room temperature and humidity in your lash room are not within the ideal range, it will affect the overall performance of your lash adhesive. Resulting in eyelash retention issues.
But don’t worry, you can easily help increase lash retention and make your clients happy at the same time! Here are 3 ways to help you get started.
1. Control your environment for lash retention
The environment you are working in when lashing will greatly affect the lash retention of your lash glue. Use a hygrometer with a thermometer feature to determine the temperature and humidity inside your space. A hygrometer is a device that measures the moisture in the air. This will help identify any humidity or temperature issues.
Humidifier for a low humidity environment
When there is not enough moisture in the air, your lash glue will not dry quickly. The result? Adjacent eyelash extensions might slip and stick together. Not only will your set not look good but this is a big no-no for many reasons. Including poor lash retention.
If extensions and natural lashes stick and clump together you can damage your client’s natural lashes. In addition, if you are working with volume fans, the slow drying speed will cause your fans to close and you will not be able to achieve a fluffy full set.
Sometimes when the air is too dry, adverse reactions like eye tearing, inflammation, and allergies will increase. This can affect eyelash extension retention.
You can easily add moisture to the air by using a humidifier. Purchase a humidifier or nano mister to balance the humidity inside your lash room. Most humidifiers have built in settings to help regulate your space, adjusting the amount of moisture as needed.
Dehumidifier for a high humidity environment
When the humidity in your lash room is too high, the drying and curing speed of your lash adhesive will be faster than indicated on the label.
What happens to lash retention when the lash adhesive dries too quickly? The adhesive might be partially cured when you are applying eyelash extensions and won’t be attached fully. Resulting in weak bonds.
Balance the humidity levels in your lash room by using a dehumidifier. If you don’t have a dehumidifier to use, try decreasing the temperature inside your lash room. It may help balance or counter the high humidity and give your lash adhesive more time to cure.
2. Change your lashing technique for more lash retention
Work with one small drop of glue at a time and change the glue bead regularly. A good rule of thumb is to replace the glue every 20-30 minutes. Remember, moisture in the air will cause your glue to dry, this principle is the same for your bead of glue, in that, the outer surface of your glue will begin the curing process.
Also, I recommend picking up small amounts of lash glue on your lash extensions when classic lashing. Less is more, but you still want to be able to see the adhesive on the extension. There is a fine line between too much and not enough. Having said that, the more sets you complete, the easier it will be to differentiate what is too much or not enough.
When doing classic lashes, dip the bottom 2mm to 4mm of your eyelash extension into the adhesive and slowly pull it out. Slowly doing this will prevent beads of adhesive from accumulating at the bottom of the lash extension.
It is always good practice to isolate the natural lashes first, before dipping the extension in glue and applying. This way, you are ready to attach the lash extensions right after dipping in glue.
3. Find the right lash glue for your environment for lash retention
The changes in humidity and temperature in your location and environment can’t be avoided especially if it is because of the climate and seasons. If you can't fix the humidity issues I explained, you can look for the best lash glue for your particular region or space.
Consider looking for a lash adhesive with a quick-drying time to compensate for the slow drying and curing process. On the other hand, if your location is high in humidity, your lash glue will dry faster. Look for lash adhesives with slow curing and drying time. This will provide more time for you to attach each lash extension without having to hurry too much.
Don’t forget to replace an open bottle of adhesive every 4-8 weeks (depending on the manufacturer's advice). Remember, all products have a shelf life.
The humidity and temperature will affect lash retention of the lash adhesive negatively. So, always check the humidity and temperature in your lash room before you start applying eyelash extensions. This will make sure you always produce consistently good-looking sets every time.
For all your lash supplies, find everything you need at Cartel Lash or speak to a product specialist for recommendations!