How to Create Natural Looking Lash Extensions for Clients

by Joan Wong

Not all clients want the same look. Yes, it’s true!  And not all clients want the dramatic look, some like the classic and natural-looking eyelashes. 

Everyone has their own preferences, especially on how they look. We have to accept and respect their choices. But it is our responsibility to give them the right look that our clients want to have. Let’s find out how to create natural-looking eyelash extensions.

Classic vs. volume lash extensions

Classic lash extensions

Simple, beautiful, and natural-looking best describe classic lash extensions. They are applied on a 1:1 ratio. One extension is applied for every piece of a natural lash. This provides a more natural look that doesn’t scream your client has lash extensions. This type of lash extension is ideal for clients with lots of lashes already but who want to add more length.

Woman getting eyelash extension treatment at lash salon. Cartel Lash

The application of natural lash extensions usually takes around 1.5 to 2 hours. There are a wide variety of materials, curls, styles, and thicknesses to choose from to provide the results your client is looking for.

Volume and mega volume eyelash extensions

Volume eyelash extensions vary from natural to a more dramatic and full look. Compared to the classic’s 1:1 ratio, with volume lashes, multiple extensions are applied to a single natural lash. If two extensions are applied to a single natural lash, it is called 2D, and if three extensions are applied, it is called 3D, and so on. Typically each volume fan will have 2 to 5 extensions. This method is called Russian volume.

The difference between volume lashes and mega volume lashes is the number of extensions used to create each fan. Mega volume fans use between 6 to 16 extensions.

Illustration of Russian volume eyelash extension types. Cartel Lash

The lash extensions used for volume lashes are thinner compared to classic. They are usually 0.03, 0.05, and 0.07 diameter which is lighter and thinner making it possible to attach multiple extensions to a single natural lash. The whole process for volume lash extension application lasts for 2 - 3 hours. This will depend on if you, the lash technician, made pre-made fans prior to the appointment. 

Remember, do not cluster a LOT of lash extensions in a single natural lash. It is called a cluster and it is not good for your client’s natural lashes. And it may cause damage to your clients lashes.

How do they compare

Classic lashes only require little prep time making them more affordable and the usual go-to for new clients. They are easier and quicker to do. While volume lashes need a higher level of skill and take longer to do. However, you can minimize the application time for volume lashes by prepping the fans beforehand.

Close-up of eye with eyelash extensions. Cartel Lash

If your client is looking for a more natural look, go for classic extensions. But if they want a lighter, fluffier, and fuller look, go for the volume lash extensions. You must be wondering how volume lash extensions are lighter and fluffier, right? The answer is the lash adhesive. Less lash glue is used for volume extensions compared to classic extensions. The result is fluffier and lighter lashes.

Creating a natural lash extension look

This is the most basic look that many lash lovers go for. However, there are a few key elements you should know and understand in order to properly achieve that natural look your client wants. Let us start!


Technically, the length of the lash extensions you will be using depends on the length of your client’s natural lashes. But be extra careful of using longer lash extensions because if you go too long, the lash adhesive’s retention will decrease or cause it to break leading to premature shedding.

If your client wants longer lashes, go for finer ones. It will balance the weight of the extensions and it will not be too heavy. 

Woman getting classic eyelash extensions by lash tech. Cartel Lash

In addition, ask your client if they wear eyeglasses. You have to consider the length of the extensions you will be applying. They shouldn't brush their glasses and it is recommended to not use lash extensions longer than 12mm. However, this can vary. Do not hesitate to ask your client what they prefer.


The letters used to identify each curl type looks just like the letters. 

  • J curl: It has the least amount of curl from all the curl types. The curl is hardly noticeable, only at the front. It looks like the letter J.
  • B curl: It is the go-to curl type. This curl type has a lesser curl and it looks more natural. The curl is a little bit more noticeable compared to the J curl.
  • C curl: This is the most common curl used by lots of lash artists. It matches most people’s natural lash curl.
  • D curl: It is the most dramatic and visible curl type. This type has the most lift and is more obvious compared to the other types. It is also the most popular and used curl type.
  • L curl:  This has the most curl but they are ideal for clients with hooded eyelids.

However, it is necessary for you to be careful in choosing the curl type you are going to use. Make sure the one you choose will look great for the eye shape and eyelids of your client. Check your curl type chart to make sure you are using the right one.


There are various diameters or thicknesses to choose from. Each diameter is made for different purposes. But, just to be safe, it is best to use a natural diameter. Meaning, match the thickness of the lash extensions with your client’s natural lashes. This is the safest and most efficient technique you can use.

Young woman with natural eyelash extensions. Cartel Lash

While natural lashes are usually at most, 0.15mm. So, don’t go thicker than that because they will be heavier than your client’s natural lashes. It can tug and cause damage to your client’s natural lashes.

Remember, the number of lash extensions you will be using will also depend on the thickness and length you are going to use. It will depend on your client’s natural lashes. 


One of the best ways to make sure the lash extensions look natural is if the color is close or the same as the natural lashes of your clients. Black lash extensions are the most commonly used but brown lash extensions are a great way to add a nice dazzling look. Plus, they look lovely when the sun shines on them. 


There are 2 main types of lash extensions: classic and volume. They are usually identified by thickness. Classic extensions are thicker compared to volume lashes that are finer and spread out like a fan. However, it is still worthwhile to look at hybrid lashes.

Woman with eyelash extensions showing her new natural set. Cartel Lash

Hybrid is a mixed set of classic and volume lashes. Usually, it is a 50% classic and 50% volume, some even use 70% classic and 30% volume. It mostly depends on what your client wants. This is the ideal type if your client wants more volume but not too full.

Practice and experience will help make the decision-making easier for you. Don’t worry if you are encountering some problems. That is normal. All you need to do is be patient and practice, practice, practice!